Assessment: Sommelier Jamie Duran and chef David Friedman left Ossington to open a restaurant with a more traditional, three-course format. The result is Red Fish, which opened this month in the old Mitzi’s on College space. Friedman’s focus is on sustainable fish, cooked simply, though there are still playful dishes such as a spicy chili-miso octopus ssam (Korean-style lettuce wraps) and seared scallops with tiny cubes of potato and octopus hash. With its white-linen tablecloths and flickering tea lights, Red Fish is an ideal date spot. Still, the occasional dog walker will drop by to chat with the owners, making it less of a fancy affair and more of a neighbourhood go-to.